Ilha do Cardoso, a rustic island in Brazil, offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life, located over 170 miles southwest of São Paulo, a city teeming with over 12 million people.
Imagine an Island
Imagine an island with no roads, no cars, and where children commute to school by boat. Here, solar panels power the homes, and the generator switches off at 10:30 every night, plunging the island into a serene darkness.
A Sanctuary
This island, Ilha do Cardoso, is a sanctuary, a protected area where only the native-born or those who marry into the community can reside. With just 480 inhabitants spread across a few villages, life here revolves around fishing.
Tucked at the Southern Edge
Tucked at the southern edge of São Paulo state, Ilha do Cardoso is a world apart from the frenetic pace of the mainland.
Protected Wilderness
The island boasts 33,000 acres of protected wilderness, including mangroves, beaches, and marshes, all part of a state park.
Getting There
Reaching Ilha do Cardoso for an overnight stay is an adventure in itself. Travelers must first journey to Cananéia, the southernmost city in São Paulo state, then cross the Mar Pequeno by ferry. From there, it’s a three-hour boat ride to Marujá, the southernmost settlement on the island.
The islanders cherish their isolation, fostering a tight-knit community where visitors mingle with locals at the island’s few restaurants or at the bars of family-run inns known as “pousadas.”
The Simple Life
German photographer Ralf Henze, a frequent visitor, speaks of the island’s allure: “The simple life and the happy people draw me back. Here, they embrace a life of less, devoid of ego and materialism.”
While anyone can visit, advance booking is crucial due to the limited number of accommodations.
From Cananéia, a boat can take you to Pereirinha beach, a mere six kilometers from the city, where you might spot dolphins and other marine life. A short walk leads to the Núcleo Perequê, the park’s headquarters, where you can explore the mangroves on guided tours or hire private boats.
Exploring the Island
A trail through dense mangroves, where roots twist and turn in saline water, brings you back to Pereirinha beach. Here, Quiosque Raiz Caiçara, a family-owned restaurant, serves local delicacies like fish, salad, and rice, and occasionally hosts pig roasts.
The island’s visitor limit ensures the beaches remain uncrowded, offering a tranquil experience. Birdwatchers will revel in the sight of Brazil’s unique avian species.
For a deeper immersion, head to Marujá, where the guesthouses and the heart of the island’s community lie. The village is home to the Caiçara people, descendants of indigenous, European, and African inhabitants.
A Sustainable Way of Life
Life here is simple, with villagers living off the fish they catch and the crops they grow, following a sustainable agricultural practice known as coivara.
However, this way of life is under threat from real estate speculation and dwindling fish stocks. Eco-tourism has become a vital income source, and engaging with local tours is highly recommended.
Unique Experiences
A 24-kilometer hike leads to a hidden natural swimming pool, boat trips reveal cascading waterfalls, night excursions offer sightings of alligators and phytoplankton, and visits to ancient shell mounds provide insights into the island’s pre-European history.
Back in Marujá, a sandy beach is just a stone’s throw from the guesthouses, perfect for swimming, snorkeling, or biking along the dunes.
As night falls, the island offers a different kind of spectacle: thunderstorms over the Atlantic Ocean and the island’s mountains.
The Future of Ilha do Cardoso
With plans to privatize park management, critics fear for the future of the delicate Atlantic Forest biome. Visiting now might be your best chance to experience this unique way of life before it changes.
Ilha do Cardoso isn’t for everyone, but it’s an opportunity to disconnect from the modern world and embrace a simpler, more sustainable existence.
If You Go
The ferry no longer stops at Ilha do Cardoso, so visitors must arrange private boat transport or join existing crossings. Ask your pousada for recommendations or inquire at the port for local boatmen.
Accommodation is modest but affordable. Pousada Ilha Do Cardoso in Marujá offers beachfront stays starting at $19 per person per night, with an on-site restaurant and included breakfast. Pousada Villa Verde, also on the beach, provides family-friendly accommodations starting at $18 a night for two.
